Sunday, 29 July 2012

Keeping my hand in #3.

Same as before, but in ever decreasing circles of localness, this time ending up at Limekilns, sandwiched between a late start, a torrential storm, and seasoned with only the briskest of breezes. Just another afternoon mileage route out, and I did manage to get a few routes done as well as getting inspired for future challenges. A couple of steady routes and a slightly harder that got my surprisingly pumped for a vertical wall. All good training, and adding in a different style to previous weeks, so the hand is kept where it should be, in the rock (ideally in a good jam ;)).

Hmmm, if the horrible new Blogspot interface isn't too much of a dick, I might even have some photos...

Saturday, 21 July 2012

Keeping my hand in #2

Another brief day out, this time at The Pass Of Ballater. Did a couple of easier routes, felt fine on them, felt on reasonable trad form, and that's what I really needed to know. I had hoped to get on some harder routes there but the conditions were pretty odd. Sunny and cloudy, breezy and still, cool and muggy, dry and sweaty. It just didn't feel the right time to push harder. The Pass is a funny place. I've realised I don't actually like the granite much - awkward, angular, and polished, and thus pretty conditions-dependent - but I do really like the look of some of the harder routes there - Peel's Wall, Smith's Arete, Cold Rage and Doctor Dipso - which take more stylish lines up more elegant rock. Unfortunately neither I nor the weather were up to those lofty tasks today, so The Pass remains a sort-of project crag for me, despite it's seeming crag convenience I will have to carefully take advantage of just the right time (a cold, fresh time!) to make the most out of it. Ah well.... More mileage somewhere else next time.

Wednesday, 18 July 2012

Keeping my hand in #1

In accordance with my general plan of keeping training while circumstances and weather are preventing proper trips, I had a flying visit to Aberdeen over the weekend. After a couple of weeks of fairly regular indoor wall, and less  regular gym training, I wanted to keep my hand in on the trad, and of course just do some fun climbing ;). No big plans, just a weekend of steady mileage on surprisingly dry rock in surprisingly good weather. Hidden Inlet, Promontory Wall, Dykes Cliff - all the classic Aberdeen hallmarks of short, steep, pokey routes with fiddly gear and either obscure moves or shocking pump for their size, or sometimes both. An acquired taste which I still find curiously irresistable, and intricate enough to keep a good trad focus.

I actually got quite syked in the end, and I'm assuming that if the weather reverts to Met Office's ominously predicted "normal conditions" i.e. being fucking shit in North West Scotland, then the East coast will get some respite and I might be back there more often. Which although it's a consolation prize is no bad thing as I have quite a few inspirations along that coast.

My elbow has been fairly sore recently. 2 weeks ago it was fine when I was doing 3 gentle sessions at TCA. Last week I went to Ratho and it was sore (not sure why?) and again doing row weights on Wed (a bit of a mistake) and again on a slightly stiffer circuit at TCA on Thu (overuse by then). The weekend it felt tweaky with the odd nagging pain, but I was careful with warming up and massage, and I think the Easy Trad(tm) was fine as the last two days have been better. I think I got a bit carried away with the TCA training - again! I had to start off easy because I was such a fucking punter after not training for ages, and then climbing-wise I moved smoothly on to more challenging circuits, but I don't think my elbow was quite ready for that. I need to stick to more stamina stuff, if I can find anyone to go to the bloody lead wall with!